Made from 60-80-year old vines, the medium ruby-colored 2001 The Custodian Grenache exhibits a classic bouquet and flavors of licorice and cherry liqueur, ripe, medium-bodied, earthy undertones, and a long, heady finish. Chester Osborn, the remarkable person behind this enormous array of both impeccably high quality and value-priced wines, deserves considerable accolades for what he is able to achieve at all price ranges. If you love Australian wines, d’Arenberg is a winery to seek out as these offerings all possess abundant soul as well as character. In short, the accolades that proprietor/winemaker Chester Osborn receives not only from The Wine Advocate, but virtually everybody in the wine world, are all well deserved. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Clay, earth and smoke aromas are brightened by a flash of eucalyptus and cherry. In the mouth, a black-cherry core has pretty accents of dust and clay, but also bright hints of metal or herb. Quite nice overall, this Grenache has a dusty, medium-sized feel. 1,000 cases produced.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 88