Past its best, the 1996 The Custodian Grenache is nevertheless a very drinkable wine. Garnet hued and bricking at the rim, it delivers sweet-tasting fig and dried cherry flavors touched with hints of caramel. Medium to full-bodied, it fades away on a silky finish. "It smells like McLaren Vale," said Osborne. "Spicy, earthy, sweet fruit."