The 2009 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is a beautifully delicate and elegant wine with fruit sourced from 35-year-old vines at 400 meters above sea level. Those higher elevations have helped to shape finely detailed aromas, despite the warmer vintage. Bright notes of pressed rose, violets, licorice, spice, tar and plum all call out your attention. Solid tightness in the mouth slowly relaxes to reveal nuanced flavors of bright cherry, spice and leather. Each time you return to the glass, the wine offers yet another dimension. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Elio Grasso and his son Gianluca have created one of the finest vineyards and wineries in the Langhe today. The energy shared by this dynamic father and son team demonstrates that no ambition is too far stretched or lofty - as long as there is a will for hard work. Investments made over the last decade include a state-of-the-art winery complete with an underground cellar, buried 45 meters below the vineyards. Recently, Gianluca says his passion has turned to vineyard work: "The point is not being the greatest wine producer. It is to be the greatest producer of grapes." Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585; Admirality Beverage Co., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3555