The 2005 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera reveals gorgeous balance and beautifully integrated tannins. This is a relatively soft, floral Chiniera defined by high-toned aromatics and fresh red fruits. Gavarini contains a higher percentage of sand and sits at a higher altitude than Ginestra, both factors that contribute to the wine’s personality. The Chiniera spent two and a half years in Slavonian oak prior to being bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Gianluca Grasso is one of Piedmont’s emerging young growers and winemakers. As always, the wines here are characterized by a strong sense of discipline, vision and elegance. The estate decided against producing its Riserva Runcot in 2005, but these two very fine Barolos deserve careful consideration. Stylistically the wines capture the best of modern and traditional schools, with the former represented by the work in the vineyards and the latter by the approach in the cellar, with the exception of the Runcot, which is aged in small French oak barrels. The 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos I tasted from cask and tank are perhaps even more promising. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; tel. (503) 289-9600