The 2003 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is an elegant, perfumed wine that flows seamlessly onto the palate with remarkable length and purity. Although it doesn’t have the delineation of the finest vintages, this is a very strong effort, with everything beautifully kept in balance, including a very elegant use of oak. While I typically prefer the Ginestra here, in 2003 I have a slight preference for the Chiniera as it has retained a touch more freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Elio Grasso is one of those producers who for some reason doesn’t seem to receive the recognition he deserves. While that is unfortunate, it does mean the wines are often available at very reasonable prices. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; Tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; Tel. (503) 289-9600