I have had many good Chiantis and Vino da Tavolas from the 1991 vintage, making me wonder why this vintage has not received better press. While it is not nearly as profound as the 1990 vintage, and there is a problem with inconsistency, there are quantities of good wine available. The impressive 1991 Coniale (100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in small oak casks for 12-14 months) offers an intense dark ruby color, a closed but spicy, leathery, vanillin, and smoky-scented nose, dense, rich, muscular, concentrated flavors with considerable extraction, and a medium to full-bodied, spicy finish. The wine needs 1-3 years of cellaring to shed its tannin, after which it will keep for 10-15 years.
Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869
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