The rare Volnay Les Aussy (Genot-Boulanger also produces one) is medium-to-dark ruby-colored and offers black cherry, raspberry, and violet-laden aromatics. Tasting this supple and ingratiating wine is akin to drinking a glass of thick and sweet cherry juice. Medium-bodied and lively, this is not a structured or complex wine, rather it is seductive, opulent, and lovely. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Vincent Bitouzet crafted marvelous 1996s, capturing this vintage's succulent fruit. Unlike most vignerons with whom I spoke, Bitouzet reported that his wines' malos took place normally, and were not retarded. He did not heat the cellars or use malo-inducing artificial yeasts, attributing the rapid malo-lactic fermentation to the fact that little sulphur was used during vinification. Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; Tel (800) 910-1990.

The rare Volnay Les Aussy (Genot-Boulanger also produces one) is medium-to-dark ruby-colored and offers black cherry, raspberry, and violet-laden aromatics. Tasting this supple and ingratiating wine is akin to drinking a glass of thick and sweet cherry juice. Medium-bodied and lively, this is not a structured or complex wine, rather it is seductive, opulent, and lovely. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.Vincent Bitouzet crafted marvelous 1996s, capturing this vintage's succulent fruit. Unlike most vignerons with whom I spoke, Bitouzet reported that his wines' malos took place normally, and were not retarded. He did not heat the cellars or use malo-inducing artificial yeasts, attributing the rapid malo-lactic fermentation to the fact that little sulphur was used during vinification.Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; Tel (800) 910-1990.