The 2008 Barbaresco Bordini is much more focused and inward than the 2007. Dark red cherries, plums, licorice, mint and minerals are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. The 2008 impresses for its cut and sheer energy. It is a very classic Barbaresco that could use another few years in bottle. Tar, mint and licorice are nicely layered into the finessed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023.
Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200