The 2007 Barbaresco Bordini is a big, fleshy wine that captures the essence of the vintage in its open, radiant personality. It is a gorgeous wine endowed with tons of depth and textural richness. Tobacco, cedar and crushed flowers are some of the notes that linger on the finish. This isn’t likely to be a long-term ager, but it should offer fabulous drinking over the next few years. It is an immensely pleasing Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200