The 2006 Barbaresco Bordini is a new wine from Cogno. An initial burst of red fruit is followed by sweet baking spices, flowers and minerals. This shows lovely vitality and freshness in the fruit, but the tannins don’t seem to have quite the same level of finesse. This mid-weight Barbaresco offers fine balance in an up-front, approachable style within the context of young Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.
Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200