帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
89
WA, #206Apr 2013
The Ansgar Clusserath 2011 Riesling trocken Steinreich – originating, as usual, from Trittenheimer Apotheke and Dhroner Hofberger but in older, better situated parcels than the corresponding “Vom Schiefer” bottling (with which it shares 11.5% alcohol) – reinforces the zesty and yeasty pungency it shares with that latter wine by way of a smoky, stone-dusty aura. Luscious fresh apple and nectarine laced with nut oils and tinged with salt and apple pip harmoniously inhabit a schmaltzy yet persistently refreshing palate. This ought to remain delightful for 3-5 years. Eva Clusserath has seldom if ever shown me a more consistently fine collection than from this vintage and it’s too bad that until now only a small representation of her wines – this year bottled in mid-summer – has shown up Stateside. Rather than do a green harvest, Clusserath elected to instead organize a massive “pre-harvest” the third week in September that thinned her vineyards of bunches that had been affected by August hail, but whose results otherwise proved serviceable. Most of her best material, though, was picked close to a month later.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799