Ansgar Clusserath Steinreich Riesling Qba Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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The Ansgar-Clusserath 2010 Riesling trocken Steinreich – originating, as usual, from Trittenheimer Apotheke and Dhroner Hofberger, as does much of the estate’s “Vom Schiefer” bottling – exhibits a fascinating aroma suggesting sea breeze and oyster shells (though perhaps also a hint of the more conventionally “mineral” wet stone) along with apple and time. If anything this is even a bit sparer and tarter than its ostensibly lesser sibling, but the aforementioned fascination persists all the way through an undeniably protracted and refreshing finish. This might well flesh-out a bit in the next couple of years, but I would tentatively plan on drinking it within 3-4. Eva Clusserath was among the many to experience a commercially depressing 2010 vintage. “We went as many as three or four times into the same vineyard to optimize ripeness,” she reports, and in the face of all that expensive labor, volumes were down by close to half. Clusserath double-salt de-acidified the must for her basic dry wine, but otherwise says she waited as long as she could to harvest (beginning only near the end of October) and arrived at total acidity in her other musts of around ten grams, extremely moderate by vintage standards (not to mention lower than Clusserath’s husband Philipp Wittmann registered in Rheinhessen!). And as usual at this address, a day or more of skin contact was permitted for the dry wines; and all of the wines stayed on their fine lees until bottling, which ranged from late May though July. Together with losses during fermentation and to tartrate precipitation, these factors resulted in wines whose finished acid levels would not even raise an eyebrow on the Mosel, something one can claim for very few 2010s. Yet ironically, despite that analytical fact, these wines are recognizably of their vintage in terms of their relatively sharp corners and in the best instances productive tension, vivacity and invigoration.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799