The 2005 Riesling trocken Steinreich is named “realm of stones” rather than – as was formerly the case with this bottling – being designated “Riesling Apotheke two star.” In the nose this hints at quince and licorice peeking from behind a rather wooly reductive note and youthful yeastiness. Amazingly oily and dense as well as flatteringly silky on the palate, and with a superb concentration of dried apple, quince jelly, and sheer wet stone, it finishes somewhat austerely in its adamant stoniness and gripping phenolics, but it is impossible not to remain impressed. Also recommended: 2005 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett ($22.00; 84), 2005 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese ($30.00; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300