Ansgar Clusserath Steinreich Riesling Qba Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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The 2006 Riesling trocken Steinreich certainly lives up to its billing (“realm of stones”) with persistently stony, mineral underlying character. Clear, bright citrus fruits and fresh apricot combine with a lovely creaminess of texture to yield one of those delicious paradoxes of Riesling, with richness yet refreshment and relative delicacy. Suggestions of tart fruit skin and bitter apricot kernel, together with wet stone, lend depth and interest. This will prove versatile and satisfying for the next several years. Eva Clusserath keeps going from strength to strength, and made a success of 2006 (if one overlooks very small yields). This year, parcels of old vines she has acquired in Piesport and Dhron supplement her portfolio. The bad news is that she did this to compensate for many wonderful old vineyards she lost as part of the just-completed communal restructuring and replanting in Trittenheim. A prohibition is now (at least temporarily) in place against planting ungrafted vines, and there is not enough old plant material available. Even were clonal selections that she could have planted today to reach maturity (and she late middle age!), says Clusserath, they would never approach the quality of what she lost.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300