While Clusserath’s bone dry “Vom Schiefer” bottling was slightly austere and simple, her 2009 Riesling trocken Steinreich – hailing from Trittenheimer Apotheke and Dhroner Hofberger – is more intriguing and satisfyingly sappy. Raw pumpkin or winter squash, fresh apple, and faintly smoky crushed stone notes in the nose lead to a juicy palate performance undergirded by palpable extract and with a satisfying sense of lift and refreshment. Despite late harvest, the wine finished – as had last year’s more focused version – at a modest 11.5% alcohol. I would plan to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Eva Clusserath – for more about the recent and significant evolution of whose family estate consult in particular my report in issue 187 – adjudged the quality of her 2009 grapes “super” and did not pick the last of them until mid-November. No bottling took place until June, but several wines had only recently or not even finished fermenting by then and so were bottled at the end of the summer. (Unfortunately, Eva Clusserath forgot to bring a bottle of this year’s Auslese – picked out from various parcels in the Apotheke – to our tasting in Rheinhessen chez Clusserath & Wittmann; and as one thing led to another in the course of an extremely tight schedule, I was subsequently unable to connect-up with a bottle.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300