From vines planted in 1893, the impressively dark-colored 2016 Old Bastard Shiraz kicks off with scents of creosote and vanilla, only opening up slowly to reveal mixed berries, licorice, black olives and cedar. There's a slight herbal tang as well. On the palate, this is medium to full-bodied, not the hugely powerful beast of 15 years ago, with a sense of balance and decorum that belies the wine's name and iconic Steadman label. The tannins are ripe and silky-textured, lingering through the long, mouthwatering finish and suggesting that even after five years, this wine could drink well for another two decades.