As good as the preceding wines may be, they pale in the shadow of the 2005 Shiraz “Old Bastard,” sourced from a 114-year-old vineyard, and which spent 22 months in new and one-year-old French oak. It presents a superb perfume of cedar, violets, lavender, smoked meat, game, black raspberry, and blueberry. This leads to a voluptuous, velvety-textured, layered, super concentrated Shiraz in perfect balance with well-concealed tannins and a 60-second, pure finish. Give it 6-8 years and drink it through 2035. The Kaesler family, of Silesian origin, emigrated to the Barossa in the 1840s. The winemaking is in the hands of Reid Bosward and Stephen Dew. Importer: Ben Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; www.kaesler.com.au; Also tasted: 2007 Semillon “Old Vine” (84)

Lithe and juicy. A lively mouthful of raspberry, currant, coffee and peppery spice flavors, lingering enticingly on the fine-grained finish. Shows a bit of heat on the finish, but has tremendous depth and persistence. A bit tight now, this can benefit from cellaring. Shiraz. Best from 2010 through 2018. 1,200 cases made, 500 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / Barossa / Barossa Valley Select to Add