The 1995 Tocai Friuliano is a delicious, fleshy, gorgeously fruity, vivacious, pure, light to medium-bodied wine with loads of intensity, and an intriguing hazelnut, lime/lemon fruitiness that I found appealing. This wine would work wonders with chicken or fish dishes, as well as a variety of pasta dishes. Mario Schiopetto is considered to be one of the great Italian white wine makers. Long-time readers know my opinion on most Italian whites - boring, innocuous, sterile wines with no character or charm. That being said, there is evidence of some improvement. The three wines reviewed in this segment struck me as among the best tank-fermented and aged dry whites I have ever tasted from Italy. Moreover, the Sauvignon is splendid. I suspect all three offerings will last for 4-5 years, but my palate prefers white wines fresh and lively, so I would opt for drinking them over the next 12-24 months. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620