If readers want to make an argument about terroir, finesse, and elegance, allied with considerable flavor intensity, this wine offers plenty of evidence. The 1994 Tocai Friulano possesses a more pronounced aromatic expression than the 1994 Pinot Bianco, as well as a steely, wonderfully fresh palate with gobs of fruit, and excellent balance. Schiopetto is a legendary producer of Italian white wines that have long been considered benchmarks for their levels of fruit, texture, and intensity. They never see a day of oak, and are among the most natural wines grown in the soils of Italy's Friuli region. Although the prices are high, the three current offerings are impressive wines. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869