Domaine Dugat-Py's 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is extraordinary, wafting from the glass with a ravishingly pure bouquet of peony, rose petal, red cherries and cassis, with only subtle hints of the savory complexity to come with bottle age. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and multidimensional, its tannins exquisitely fine and its concentration and length immense, but what really defines this Lavaux Saint-Jacques is its bright acid line and sappy energy, which carry through the fine-grained, stony finish. This 2015 evokes the domaine's superb 2005 rendition, but in 2015 extraction is more controlled and the fruit still more vibrant. It's a timeless Lavaux Saint-Jacques that eclipses many grands crus—and one that will merit a dozen years of patience.
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