The fabulous 1988 La Guiraude offers a black-pepper- and olive-scented bouquet intertwined with superripe black plums, raspberries, minerals, and licorice. On the palate the wine exhibits plenty of toasty oak, which serves to frame its size and concentration. It is a delicious, expansively flavored Crozes. Anticipated maturity: now-2007. Last tasted 6/95.