The luxury cuvee from Graillot, the 1990 Crozes-Hermitage-La Guiraude, is a compelling example of just what heights a top producer can reach in a less prestigious appellation. The nose of smoke, oriental spices, black fruits, and oak is enough to turn any wine enthusiast into a Rhone wine fanatic. On the palate, the wine exhibits a multi-dimensional personality, phenomenal ripeness and richness, decent acidity, and gobs of glycerin, alcohol, and extraction of flavor in a finish that must last for a minute. It is surprisingly approachable given its massive size, but the fruit and body have hidden some lofty tannin levels. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2008. Importer: A Christopher Cannan/Europvin Selection, various importers.