The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Vaucrains is fascinating to taste after Les St. Georges. In 2010 the Vaucrains is more finessed and elegant than the St. Georges, but in 2009 those rules are reversed, as it is the Vaucrains that comes across as far more imposing, inward and structured. Today the Vaucrauins is implosive and seems to be holding back much of its potential. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame the fruit through to the tense, wiry finish. The Vaucrains needs to be buried in a deep, cold cellar for several years, perhaps considerably longer, although I am optimist by nature. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. My tasting with Denis and Bertrand Chevillon was one of the highlights of my most recent trip to Burgundy. The domaine’s 2009s are flat-out beautiful. Readers will not want to miss these gems. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524