The medium to dark ruby-colored 1997 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains exhibits an earth, fresh herb, cedar, spice, and blackberry-scented nose. This is a concentrated, well-extracted, masculine wine, crammed with sweet, softly textured fruits. It is significantly structured. Verging on foursquare, it will require moderate patience. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2007. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.