The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains has blackberry and toasted oak aromas. This intense, thick-textured, medium to full-bodied wine is packed with black currants, blackberries, licorice, and road tar. It is tight and foursquare, yet reveals outstanding depth and density of fruit. Its firm finish lasts for at least 45 seconds on the palate. This offering will require patience, but may well merit an even greater score as its fruit unfolds with age. Projected maturity: 2005-2015. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.