A blend of Mitans and Chanlins, the 1990 Volnay 1er Cru from Lafarge is beginning to drink very well. A mature bouquet of red and black plum, fig (showing a bit of 1990 torrefaction), cocoa powder, rich soil and bass notes of game bird is followed by a rich, expansive wine, cut from quite ample cloth for this bottling. There is just a bit of slightly hard tannin remaining on the back end (a function of physiological maturity delayed by hydric stress, or just an argument for a few more years in the cellar?) of what is otherwise a broad and textural palate. There is nice cut here, though obviously not as much as one would find in a cooler vintage.