A juicy, immediate wine, the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino impresses for its inner perfume and overall harmony. Cloves, menthol, licorice and tar are some of the notes that meld together as the wine opens up. In this vintage, the volatile acidity that is sometimes present is more pronounced than usual because the wine lacks its customary depth. Hints of hard candy, flowers and mint linger on the racy finish. Overall, this is a solid effort from Poggio di Sotto. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Poggio di Sotto is understandably going through a bit of a transition. Former proprietor Piero Palmucci sold the property to Claudio Tipa of Grattamacco in 2011. That was followed by the passing of long-time winemaker Giulio Gambelli in late 2012. It will take some time for those two events to sort themselves out. Poggio di Sotto isn’t a winery – it’s an icon. Hopefully the new team will be able to equal and eventually surpass the wines made here by Gambelli, but it will require the same type of rigorous approach instilled by Palmucci, one of the most strong-willed and tenacious people I have ever met. Piero Palmucci seemed to rule with fear, and while I am not sure that is always so pleasant, the results were beyond reproach. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524