The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is just as beautiful in bottle as it was in cask. This is a supremely layered, exquisite Brunello that flows onto the palate with tons of grace and class. Medium in body, the wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume framed by ripe, silky tannins that caress the fruit all the way to the close. The wine gains freshness and volume in the glass, exhibiting supreme beauty. Sweet scents of roses linger on the long, refined finish. Simply put, this is sublime juice. If my barrel tastings are any indication, the Riserva should be even better. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022. Poggio di Sotto is one of the most beautiful properties in Montalcino. Set on a hillside in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, these vineyards benefit from an exceptional microclimate. Proprietor Piero Palmucci makes sublime, elegant Brunellos of rare pedigree. At their best, the wines have an inner perfume that recalls the great Barbarescos of Bruno Giacosa. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the 2006 Rosso in time for this article. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

A little earthy, with ripe, decadent fruit on the nose that turns to raspberry jam. Full-bodied, with soft tannins, good acidity and a juicy finish. Slightly chewy, but delicious now. Drink now. 1,750 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add