The monopole (solely owned) Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs possesses a ruby color with aromas of tangy black currants. The elegant, medium-to-full-bodied character of this silky wine has copious quantities of cherries, blackberries and earth tones. Gorgeously long and well-delineated, it is a quintessential example of how Volnays can be both powerful and elegant. Drink it between 1999 and 2006. It is only appropriate that a producer who crafts the top generic bottlings in Burgundy should also be responsible for some of its finest village wines. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A Becky Wasserman Selection, French Fax # 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; tel (415) 398-1200, Martin-Scott, Lake Success, NY; tel (516) 327-0808.