The estate’s 2009 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs saturates the palate with its deep, persistent fruit. The aromas and flavors build in the glass towards the rich, multi-dimensional finish. This shows marvelous staying power and fabulous overall balance. The Clos du Chateau des Ducs is more overtly fruit-driven and structured but perhaps a touch less aromatically expressive than the Mitans. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted the 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Gorgeous fruit, velvety and rich, yet still airy. Satin tannins. Firms up and focuses in a straight and channelled finish.