The brilliant 1962 Coutet has evolved a little since I last tasted it a decade ago, but even if it has lost a little of the vigor it displayed back then, it remains a complex, deeply compelling wine. Exhibiting aromas of bitter orange, confit citrus, beeswax, crème br?lée and coniferous forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a long, saline finish. With age, the perception of sweetness is diminishing, and today this is in a great place.