Apparently Chante Cigale, like far too many domaines in Chateauneuf du Pape, has an assortment of cuvees available for prospective purchasers. In 1989 there were at least three separate wines sold in the American market, and although there were differences in quality, all three offerings were at least good. That is not the case in 1990. The cuvee I tasted, which is represented by Christopher Cannan, was outstanding and clearly superior to the best cuvee of 1989. It reveals a saturated, dark plummy color, a huge roasted, smoky, leathery, meaty nose, dense, superbly concentrated fruit flavors, and a long, full-bodied, sweet finish. It is a powerful, authoritatively flavored Chateauneuf du Pape that should drink well for a decade or more. While I did not see the cuvee offered to Chante Cigale's other American importer, the Pennsylvania firm of Weygandt-Metzler, the cuvee being sold directly from the domaine to European clients exhibits an obviously sterile-filtered nose, short, clipped, eviscerated flavors, and a hollow, thin finish. The quality range of nearly 20 points suggests an appalling lack of consistency. Should a producer not have some responsibility for putting a consistent product on the market? How can anyone have any confidence in what they are buying given such qualitative disparity? If you can find the best bottling, this is clearly a wine worth buying, but be sure to taste Chante Cigale's 1990 before making a commitment. Importers: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA and a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.