Aged entirely in barrel (15% new), the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Le Grand Courtil shows a hefty dose of smoke, baking spices and pencil shavings at the moment, although there's a solid core of cassis and blueberry fruit. It's full-bodied and concentrated, so give it a year or two to better integrate the oak and soften the dusty tannins on the finish, then drink it over the following decade.