The 2009 Crozes Hermitage le Grand Courtil is showing some bricking at the rim, evolved earthy aromas and some meaty-leathery notes. It's still full-bodied and mouth-filling, but it's starting to thin out texturally and drying out on the finish. Drink up.

As for the selections parcellaires reds, there are 337 cases of the inky/ruby/purple-tinged 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Le Grand Courtil. Aromas of graphite, smoked game, black currants and espresso roast emerge from this full-bodied, moderately tannic red. With great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, it will be even better in 3-4 years and should drink well for 25 years. If the turn around in quality of the Paul Jaboulet-Aine wines is the biggest good news story of qualitative improvement in the northern Rhone, what Michel Chapoutier has accomplished with Ferraton is a close second. This is definitely a name to be taken seriously, as Chapoutier has expanded the portfolio and continues to upgrade the quality across the board. Ferraton’s 2009s and 2010s are the finest wines made to date. There appears to be three levels of quality now being produced, beginning with the generic bottlings, to the single vineyard (or lieu-dit) offerings, followed by the top of the line, more expensive, limited production efforts called selections parcellaires.Importer: A French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994