Bertrand Ambroise Les Vaucrains, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, France

伯特蘭安布魯瓦茲沃克斯園（夜圣喬治一級園）干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4417

Blackberry and huckleberry inform the darkly-, densely-, bittersweetly-concentrated Ambroise 2008 Nuits St.-Georges Clos Les Vaucrains, whose massive though relatively fine-grained tannins are underlain by suggestions of pencil lead and crushed stone that advance a rather austere overall impression. Certainly the sheer intensity of raw material here as resisted its (100%) new wood, although Ambroise doesn’t deny that the oak reinforces the impression of tannin. A strongly saline streak stimulates a welcome burst of salivation in a finish – tinged by iodine and medicinal, herbal bitterness – that is practically intimidating in its density, grip, and gum-numbing. Perhaps some of the inscrutable compactness here will dissipate in the course of bottling – I last tasted this from barrel – but I doubt it. I’d want to reassess it after a few years in bottle but suspect it will be best drunk at between 8 and 12 years of age and that 15 or more years from now it may appear too tough for its own good. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Blackberry and huckleberry inform the darkly-, densely-, bittersweetly-concentrated Ambroise 2008 Nuits St.-Georges Clos Les Vaucrains, whose massive though relatively fine-grained tannins are underlain by suggestions of pencil lead and crushed stone that advance a rather austere overall impression. Certainly the sheer intensity of raw material here as resisted its (100%) new wood, although Ambroise doesn’t deny that the oak reinforces the impression of tannin. A strongly saline streak stimulates a welcome burst of salivation in a finish – tinged by iodine and medicinal, herbal bitterness – that is practically intimidating in its density, grip, and gum-numbing. Perhaps some of the inscrutable compactness here will dissipate in the course of bottling – I last tasted this from barrel – but I doubt it. I’d want to reassess it after a few years in bottle but suspect it will be best drunk at between 8 and 12 years of age and that 15 or more years from now it may appear too tough for its own good. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083