I first raved about Elio Altare's brilliant wines nearly a dozen years ago, and I remember some old-timers in the wine business raising their eyebrows about such laudatory praise for a producer who was then totally unknown in Piedmont. Over a decade later, Altare has turned out as many great wines as anybody in Piedmont. His two 1993 Barolos are brilliant wines. The 1993 Barolo Arborina is one of the vintage's most profound wines, and not far off the mark of the spectacular 1990 and 1989 Arborinas. The wine boasts an opaque deep ruby color, a stunning concoction of aromas, ranging from melted tar, toast, and smoked herbs, to jammy black-cherry fruit and roasted meats. Compelling in the mouth, with layers of opulence and sweet fruit presented in a medium to full-bodied, authoritatively rich yet graceful style, this is an awesome, extremely rich, superbly balanced Barolo that should drink well now and over the next 12-15 years.