The 2005 Barolo Arborina displays a darker profile of dark cherries, leather, tar, smoke and menthol, with tons of vibrancy laced throughout. This is an especially transparent, layered Arborina that is one of the standouts of the vintage. A recent bottle of the 1982 was still youthful and full of glory. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. It is always fascinating to spend some time with Elio Altare. My most recent visit was no exception, as we tasted through every vintage of his Barbera Larigi from 1985 to 2008. When Altare began radically shortening fermentation times and using French oak in the mid-1980s, one of the oft-heard criticisms of the wines is that they wouldn’t age, a hypothesis that has soundly proven to be false. Our tasting ended with the 1994 Langhe Arborina, a wine from a modest vintage that saw a mere 40 hours of contact with the skins, and that is still gorgeous, fresh, and intact. I will be posting notes on the Larigi vertical on my site within www.erobertparker.com. In the meantime, readers will find much to admire in these beautiful 2005 Barolos, which are among the highlights of the vintage. Unfortunately the 2006 harvest was much less kind, so fans of Altare’s wines will want to consider these 2005 Barolos carefully.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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