The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino from Case Basse is a modern day classic, as well as one of the greatest Brunellos I have ever tasted. It exhibits a deep ruby color, and a magnificent, rich, complex nose of roasted herbs, sweet, jammy, red and black fruits, cedar, spice, and oak. The wine is extremely powerful and full-bodied, with layers of highly concentrated, ripe fruit. Despite its massive size, it retains a gracefulness and sense of elegance. The velvety texture and layers of fruit conceal the wine's high tannin. It is approachable young, but should age effortlessly for 15-20 years. Kudos to proprietor Gianfranco Soldera. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This bottle, from my cellar, is one of the finest examples I have had. The only real problem with the 1990 is the existence of the 1990 Riserva, an epic, towering Brunello that, in my view, remains one of the greatest wines ever made in anywhere in the world. Soldera’s 1990 Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite have the visceral power and lushness of his Riserva, but you know what? It comes pretty close. Heady Sangiovese aromas and flavors literally explode onto the palate with seamless intensity. Still rich and beautifully layered, the 1990 has more than enough stuffing to drink well for another twenty years. The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino is the first Brunello Soldera made from his Case Basse vineyard. Prior to that, the Brunellos were all made from the Intistieti vineyard, as was the 1990 Riserva. Sadly, Gianfranco Soldera passed away suddenly about a year ago. This wine and so many others he made remain vivid testaments to his extraordinary life and legacy.