Things get even better with the 1983 Brunello di Montalcino, which is drop-dead gorgeous. It possesses superb inner perfume and a full-bodied, ripe and opulent expression of fruit. The contrast between structured and fruit-driven vintages is one of the themes that begins to emerge from this comprehensive tasting. Overall, these early wines are notable. They have remained perfectly intact, which is quite an accomplishment for a producer who was very young at the time the wines were made.