This large-scaled, intensely fragrant Brunello offers up a lavishly exotic and decadent bouquet of grilled meats, hickory smoke, jammy peaches as well as red and black fruits, coffee, and spices. Full-bodied, with authoritatively rich, supple flavors oozing with glycerin and extract, this meaty, multidimensional, velvety-textured wine can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Hohokus, NJ.

At nearly thirty years of age, the 1988 Brunello di Montalcino remains bright, vibrant and full of life. Sweet red cherry and plum flavors are pushed forward, with deeper earthy, floral and spice notes that develop in the glass. An intriguing interplay of nuance and energy separates the 1988 from most wines in this range. It remains one of my favorite Soldera wines from the 1980s. This bottle is a bit softer than others have been, but the wine is still complete, super-expressive and inviting.