One of the real surprises of the night, the 1981 Brunello di Montalcino is magnificent. The aromatics alone are striking. Smoke, saddle leather, herbs and dark-fleshed fruits all develop beautifully in the glass. With time, the 1981 gains a surprising amount of power and freshness. Although mature, the 1981 is marvelously intact. What a great way to start this tasting.