Renato Vacca’s 2011 Barbera d’Alba opens with a deep, luscious color and inky dark concentration. Layers of blackberry, fresh cherry, dark spice, mocha and leather are folded within the wine’s thick texture. There’s a playful touch of hickory smoke or barbecue at the very back. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Renato Vacca is one of the most talented winemakers in Barbaresco but only had one wine to present at this tasting. The 44-year-old works side by side with his 75-year-old father since the founding of his project in 1997. They own seven hectares, five of which are in the Ovello cru immediately in front of their cascina. Various American importers, including: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Cavatappi Distribution, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 282-5226; Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897; Ideal Wine and Spirit Co., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300