The 2009 Barbera d’Alba is all class and elegance. Silky tannins frame an expressive core of sweet red berries, flowers and spices. The wine’s inner perfume and mid-palate generosity add up to a juicy, impeccably balanced Barbera of the highest level. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This range from Cantina del Pino and proprietor Renato Vacca is one of the most impressive I tasted this year. Every wine from this small cellar in the center of Barbaresco is fabulous. I can’t say enough good things about Cantina del Pino. I never turn down a chance to drink these wines, as they are exceptional. The Barbareschi see long, submerged cap macerations that last up to a month. The wines are aged for one year in 225/228 liter French oak barrels and a second year in cask. The 2007 harvest was finished by late September, a good 10 days earlier than 2008. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Cavatappi Distribution, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 282-5226; Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300