Tasted from a borrowed bottle since my case was consumed during its first twenty years of life, this was another strong showing for the 1970 Domaine de Chevalier. It exhibited a classic, sweet, curranty, tobacco-scented nose, followed by round, expansive, gentle burgundian-like flavors. Silky smooth, with no obnoxious acidity or tannin poking through, this wine has been fully mature since 1980, but well-stored examples (such as this one) continue to offer gorgeously elegant, complex drinking. The color reveals considerable rust, but there are no signs of oxidation or fruit loss in the flavors.

Deep garnet; spicy green tea, cassis and cedar nose; full, very balanced and racy, with cassis flavor, soft tannins and cedary notes. -