The 1990 Barolo Bricco Boschis is by far one of the most impressive wines of this tasting. The quality and purity of the bouquet is outstanding and the wine sings with tones of licorice, pressed berry, cola, truffle and balsam herb that are so typical of aged Nebbiolo. What sets it apart is the focus and purity of its aromatic delivery. It’s almost coquettish in personality, revealing just a bit of its inner beauty at a time in a fluid, ever-changing melody. Its mouthfeel is equally stunning with fine, silky tannins that caress and wrap around the long finish. Those delicate endnotes remain etched on the palate for many long minutes. I wanted to make a note of the outside appearance of the bottle, which helped add to the romantic mystique of the wine within. The sample given to me was wrapped in plastic and when I lifted this protective layer, the humidity-eaten label literally disintegrated in my hands. Instead of a tin capsule, the wine was closed with a thick but brittle coating of aged wax that chipped away with difficulty. The effort required to get at the contents of this bottle only added to the sense of expectation and surprise within. This is a true beauty. I hardly see reason to wait before popping the cork. I’d suggest a double decanting 8 to 16 hours before pouring. The 23-hectare Bricco Boschis vineyard saw replanting efforts in 1990 and 3,000 vines of the Freisa variety were added to the west side of the cru site. Drink: 2014-2024.
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