The 2004 Barolo Serralunga is made in a big, forward style with plenty of concentrated fruit and French oak. It is surprisingly approachable for a Serralunga Barolo in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Despite having changed its ownership structure recently there is sadly little reason to hope that Fontanafredda will ever right its ship as the estate is saddled with legacy issues that make it very difficult to compete in today’s environment. This is an underwhelming set of wines, especially considering the superb vineyards the estate owns. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Fontanafredda is a landmark estate for the entire winemaking area and this vintage of its lovely base Barolo is particularly delicious. The aromas are broad and intense and combine hickory notes with coffee, black fruit and spice. It’s a modern, succulent wine executed in a bold and food- friendly style. Drink after 2015.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 89