The exquisite, well-balanced, sweet 1998 Barolo Serralunga displays a Graves-like character in its full-bodied, concentrated style. With abundant tannin in the finish, it will require additional cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. Importer: Parliament Wine Co., Atlantic City, NJ; tel. (609) 348-1100

The standard blend of Barolo, with a production of 100,000 bottles, is very much up to the new standards of Fontanafredda. Aromas of wood and ripe fruit on the nose, with firm, dry tannins over the ripe fruit, give some sense of hidden power. ——R.V.(11/15/2002)—— 89