The 2003 Barolo Serralunga is a terrific effort. This deeply-colored, explosive Barolo is packed with smoke, tar, licorice and dark, ripe fruit. Made in a full-bodied style, it possesses exceptional balance and superb drinkability, with plenty of Serralunga character and a long, fresh finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Fontanafredda is one of Barolo’s most historic and picturesque properties. Unfortunately the estate has been a huge underperformer for years. Even if the top Barolo selections are often outstanding, the bulk of the production falls well short of the mark. The estate has been for sale for some time, yet it appears no one is willing to step in and pay the price. That is a shame, because Fontanafredda owns a large portion of the best vineyards in the entire Barolo zone. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799