A rich, voluptuous wine, the 2009 Barbaresco Albesani comes across as surprisingly open for a young Barbaresco. Then again, Albesani is a south-facing site that caught all of the sun and heat of the August 2009 heat wave. Today the wine is stacked and packed, while the flavors are very much on the primary side of things. It will be interesting to see to what extent the 2009 develops more subtlety over the coming years. Right now it is a bit of a brute, although a beautiful brute! Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.
Proprietor Renato Vacca continues to show he has the magic touch. I would be thrilled to drink any of these magnificent wines. Vacca has decided to release his 2009 single-vineyard Barbareschi before the 2008s, as he feels those wines need another year in bottle. I hope readers take the time to check out these fabulous wines. Along with Sottimano, Gaja, Pelissero and a handful of others, Cantina del Pino is one of the very few estates in Barbaresco where every single wine is fabulous.
Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Cavatappi Distribution, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 282-5226; Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897; Ideal Wine and Spirit Co., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300