Poggio Nardone’s 2005 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass with a big, meaty expression of wild cherries, earthiness, smoke, licorice and tobacco. This is an especially rich, bold Brunello packed with fruit, but elements of overripeness and oxidation detract from the overall balance. Still, the raw materials here seem promising. I have a hard time thinking Poggio Nardone couldn’t make a better wine with more attention to farming, winemaking and elevage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Importer: DB Cellars/LAG Imports LLC., New York, NY; tel. (718) 620-6800